A Commendable Tour
Led by Adrian & Susan Doull
14 February – 15 March 2015
Southern Africa in Three Parts,
with a Distinct “Diamond Sparkle”
This is an unequaled opportunity to explore the history, the cultures, the ecology of southern Africa, and thereby to understand modern Southern Africa, and the factors influencing it geologically, politically and economically. At the same time enjoy stunning landscapes, wondrous wildlife, and world class hospitality in the two most democratic countries on the continent – South Africa and Botswana.
*Participate in any or all of the Three Parts; though we recommend at least two for the broad experience
Brief Outline of the Trip
Part A includes Johannesburg, the business and financial capital of South Africa, for museums, art, and theatre. Then, we take you to what is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful parts of South Africa, the Province of Kwa Zulu-Natal. Touching on the Anglo-Boer War, the coastal World Heritage sites, and a unique Game Reserve with its distinctive ecological environments, and ending at the multicultural city of Durban – South Africa’s most important domestic tourist destination and the largest port in Africa. Jump to more about Part A
Part B takes you to the eastern part of the famous “Garden Route” of the Cape Province, with its exceptional beauty and diverse flora and fauna of the Titsikama Forest, Plettenberg Bay, Knysna, Wilderness and the Little Karoo, followed by the stunningly beautiful surrounds of the “Mother City”, Cape Town, and ending in Kimberley, where the African diamond industry began, where we will stay at the historic Kimberley Club. Jump to more about Part B
Part C begins with a visit to Africa’s greatest natural wonder, the Victoria Falls, followed by a safari through Botswana’s remarkable land, (today the largest producer of gem diamonds in the world) including the extraordinary Okavango Delta, the largest inland delta in the world. Based always in the absolutely unique environments of luxury lodges and tents at beautiful properties, and ending with a celebratory dinner in Johannesburg. Jump to more about Part C
A Little Bit About the Countries
South Africa has seldom been out of the headlines in our lifetimes. This complex country (with 11 official languages) is a First, Second and Third World Country rolled into one. It has a mix of races, tribes, religions and cultures matched by few other countries. The arrival of the dominant European culture in 1652 was to set the stage for cultural conflict for the following 350 years, not all of it based on colour, however. The Boer/Brit struggles were as significant to the history as was the Zulu domination of large numbers of black tribes. The discovery of diamonds and then gold on a scale unknown before in history was the catalyst for large scale white immigration, the beginnings of industrialization, and the clash between British imperial avarice and the frontier independence of the Boers.
The White/Black cultural clash was more notable primarily because the numbers involved were greater, and the cultural gap was wider. The absurd impracticability of the apartheid policy was a reflection of the desperation felt by the dominant white culture in attempting to find a solution that did not involve their domination by the culture of the majority black population. Extraordinarily, cometh the hour, cometh the men. The change in political control required not only a generosity of spirit, exemplified by Nelson Mandela, but a courageous repudiation of pseudo-religious dogma among the Afrikaner people by Frederick de Klerk.
South Africa today faces enormous problems, but there is a spirit in the land that perhaps reflects that the people have been to the precipice, and have turned back from it to the broad uplands of hope. We want you to experience this ambiance, but above all we want you to understand this land better, so that your brief sojourn in it will in turn make this country, with all of its problems and challenges, better understood in the world.
Botswana is undoubtedly the most successful of the great number of African countries that attained their independence from colonial rule in the 1950s and 1960s. This is most likely due to a relatively homogenous and small population, a far-seeing and able first President, Sir Seretse Khama, and considerable mineral wealth, especially diamonds. Today it is the largest gem diamond producer in the world.
An arid land, originally home to the hunter/gatherer Koi and San peoples (sometimes known as Bushmen), who were overwhelmed by both white men from the south and black men from the north, it is landlocked and surrounded by Namibia on the west, Zimbabwe in the north, and South Africa in the east and south. It has a remarkable and unique exception to the general aridity – the largest inland Delta in the world – the Okavango. Created a British Protectorate in 1885 at the initiation of Cecil Rhodes, the people lobbied hard and successfully in London to avoid becoming part of the territory under the control of Rhodes’ British South Africa Company. Botswana has been independent since 1966.
About the Organisers
Adrian & Susan Doull are respectively South African and American. They have lived in many countries and have travelled extensively. They have considerable experience in tourism, having created a château hotel in France and participated in numerous French Government tourist delegations around the world. Susan founded Commendable Rentals LLC, a vacation rental marketing business some 9 years ago. Adrian, who spent 20 years with the Anglo American Corporation/De Beers group, including a couple of years as personal assistant to Chairman Happy Oppenheimer, has made 40 trips to Southern Africa since being transferred from South Africa to North America by the Anglo American Corporation/De Beers group in the 1970’s.
PART A – “Bantus, Boers & Brits”
Johannesburg & Pretoria (province of Gauteng)
Union Buildings, Pretoria
The natural landscape around Johannesburg gives no hint as to why the most important business centre on the African continent should be here. It is only the "mine dumps", the residue of deep underground mining, that gives the game away. The richest gold deposits in the world were the reason for the existence of Johannesburg, and while today gold is far less important in the economic life of South Africa, its legacy lives on in this thriving metropolis that remains the commercial capital of the country. As an essential element to understanding the foundation and the challenges of today’s South Africa, we have organized a three night program.
Day 1. You should plan on arriving in Johannesburg on or before the 14th of February. As most of you will have come a long distance, we view that first day as one of relaxation and recovery from your travels. For those not wishing to sleep, swim or play tennis, we will happily arrange a brief tour of the city. There will be a casual supper at the hotel. We will be staying at the The Residence, a boutique Hotel set in gardens in Houghton, the area of Johannesburg represented in parliament for 36 years by the redoubtable Helen Suzman.
Day 2. The next day we will visit the capital city, Pretoria, seeing the Voortrekker Monument, the Union Buildings (the seat of Government) and the Cullinan Diamond Mine, the source of the largest gem diamond in the world as well as a number of the other diamonds in the British Crown Jewels. That evening we will have a dinner with some notable South Africans, most likely including some with involvement in De Beers.
Day 3. The following day we will visit the Brenthurst Library, created by Harry Oppenheimer to house, inter alia, his collection of “Africana”, and will visit the remarkable gardens as well. After lunch, we will visit the Apartheid Museum, and/or the Hector Peterson Museum in Soweto. For those who have already visited these places in earlier travels with us, there will be a separate tour to the new “Museum Africa”, and to the “Credo Mutwa” Cultural Village and the Oppenheimer Tower in Soweto. The evening may include a play at the historic “Market Theatre”.
Day 4. Called “The Garden Province” for its extensive flora, this is certainly one of the most scenic parts of South Africa. We will drive there through the flat farmlands of the Gauteng and Free State highveld until the northern reaches of the Drakensberg mountains come into view. We will have lunch at Ladysmith, famous for its siege during the Second Anglo-Boer War, and take advantage of visiting the local museum.
After that we will go to the Three Trees Lodge at Spioenkop for two nights. Owned by Simon and Cheryl Blackburn who have many years of experience in lodge and wildlife management, this is a small lodge that captures the ambiance of the Victorian era that was of such significance to the history of the area.
Day 5. The next day, we can go Rhino Tracking on foot in the adjacent Reserve or visit the Spioenkop Anglo-Boer War Battlefield with Simon, or just go for walks on the farm or use the mountain bikes. If their schedule permits, we may go to attend a concert of the famous Drakensberg Boys Choir.
Gandhi in Boer War
Day 6. We can spend this morning horse-riding or hiking or bird-watching on the property, have a light lunch at the lodge and then go to Ladysmith to take a private aircraft to the northern coastal reaches of the Province, to a landing strip in Northern Zululand from which we will be transported in 4 wheel drive vehicles to Kosi Forest Lodge, a past favourite. The five interlocking lakes of the Kosi Bay area represent an unique and fascinating ecological site. Our accommodation in separate huts, complete with exterior shower and tub, will remind you that you are in Africa! That evening we will dine under the stars, and hope to catch a glimpse of an adorable bush baby in the trees, and enjoy some local entertainment.
"…FIVE INTERLOCKING LAKES
OF THE KOSI BAY…"
Kosi Lake Hippos
Day 7. After a hearty breakfast the next morning, we will head off to the nearest lake and take a shallow-bottomed covered boat through the lake system as far as time allows, taking a close look at the Raffia forest, wallowing hippos and soaring Fish Eagles, and marveling at the ancient fishing traps still used by local fisherman. We might have to get into the crystal clear water to lessen the draught, to allow the boat to pass over the sometimes shallow crossings between the lakes. We will take a picnic lunch with us to enjoy this idyll as long as possible. The following morning we might do a little canoeing or a stroll through the amazing Raffia forest before lunch, and after lunch, we will once again get into 4-wheel drive vehicles and head off for the real wildlife!
|An Aggressive Elephant|
You will awake around 5 am on Day 8 for the morning game drive, returning for breakfast. Afterwards, there is total relaxation around the pool, or elsewhere, until a light lunch. The afternoon game drive starts around 5h30 pm, and lasts approximately 3 hours, which includes “Sundowners” in the bush as the sun is setting. Returning to the lodge, dinner is taken either at the lodge or in the “Boma”, the traditional outdoor dining around a camp fire in a structure protected from wild animals.
Days 8, 9, & 10. For the next three days, we will luxuriate among the best of Africa’s wildlife, either at the Phinda Reserve (AndBeyond’s first property) or at the Amakhosi Reserve. These two reserves are not too far apart, and both provide a fabulous wildlife experience. Once inside the reserve all movement is by Land Rover, or on foot accompanied by an armed ranger. This is one of the finest wildlife places in the country.
Day 11. We depart our Game Lodge after breakfast and drive to Durban, past sugar cane fields and sub-tropical vegetation. We will stop en-route for a lunch before arriving at Umhlanga Rocks, just north of Durban, where we will be staying at The Oyster Box, a famous Five Star hotel overlooking the Indian Ocean. After a stroll along the beach, a fresh seafood dinner will be the perfect topper.
Day 12. The next day we will visit the City of Durban in the morning – the sea front, the port, possibly the Shark Research Institute, and the Bird Sanctuary before having lunch at the Durban Country Club, the site of more South African Open Golf Tournaments than any other location. In the afternoon, we may visit the Indian community’s Phoenix Settlement, created by Mahatma Ghandi. That evening there will be a dinner with invited guests so that you can learn more about the Province of Kwa Zulu-Natal.
Durban’s "Golden Mile"
Day 13. We will take a morning flight to George, in the east of the Western Cape Province. Any guests departing for international destinations will fly to Johannesburg in the afternoon for their return international flights.
PART B – “The Cape and Kimberlite”
“The Garden Route”
Day 13 – cont’d. On this Thursday, we will arrive in the morning at George, Western Cape, joined by any new guests arriving from Johannesburg. We drive through the magnificent coastal scenery to Lunch at Kurland Country House, our home for the next three days. This lovely old estate has the enticing patina of a different era, but with all of the comforts of today. Owned by Peter Behr and his family, which has owned it for more than a century, it is only 20 km from Plettenberg Bay, and close to the Tsitsikama Forest National Park. That first afternoon, we will take a walk around the estate and visit the polo grounds.
|Kurland Polo Clubhouse|
Day 14. The next morning, it’s animals and birds: the world’s largest single dome free flight bird aviary, is a dramatic environment to see an amazing bird collection. The aviary is open for us to roam around, without guides!
Nearby is the primate park of more than 500 apes and lemurs, seen up close in their forest environment; you can expect to see a variety of primates, including the Gibbons of Asia and the Lemurs of Madagascar. The knowledgeable rangers will tell you about these fascinating mammals as you encounter them roaming free in the forest.
|Not Your Average Ape|
After all of this fauna, we will head to Lunch at the farm of an artisanal cheese producer. After lunch, we will visit the Tsitsikama Forest – forest walk for the animal and bird lovers, and bungee jumping for the adventurous (at the World’s Highest Commercial Bungy Jump – a whopping 216m)!
After returning to Kurland, we will drive to dinner at an exceptional location near Plettenberg Bay – Zinzi restaurant at the architecturally stunning Tsala Country House, before returning to Kurland for the night.
Day 15. The morning will be devoted to exploring Plettenberg Bay and its beaches and shops. Lunch at The Outlook restaurant overlooking the Indian Ocean will convey the beauty of the coast. After lunch, we anticipate spending time watching a Polo Match at Kurland, where we will enjoy a final dinner.
Day 16. We will drive the 45 minutes to Knysna, one of the jewels of the Garden Route and the “Oyster Capital of the World” with its beautiful lagoon, and dramatic headlands. We will be based on the lagoon and free to take a boat ride, stroll around the shops and galleries of the waterfront of Knysna, or play golf at the renowned Pezula Golf Course with its dramatic views over the lagoon and the Indian Ocean. Staying at a curious small converted power station – The Turbine – at dinner we may sample the local oysters and other delicious seafood. The oysters are famous and might be the largest and sweetest in the world.
"The Heads" at Knysna
Day 17. Our final day on the Garden Route will take us through dramatic scenery to Outschoorn – the “Ostrich Capital of the world” where we will visit an ostrich farm, and some of the glorious scenery of the area. We will have dinner at, and spend the night at, the Rosenhof Country House Hotel.
“The Fairest Cape in all the World”
-Sir Francis Drake, 1580
Day 18. On Tuesday, we will take a flight from George to Cape Town around lunchtime, where we will be conveyed to the lovely “Last Word” boutique hotel in the beautiful surrounds of Constantia. For those interested, in the afternoon we will visit the impressive National Gardens at Kirstenbosch, including the new “treetop walkway”. We will have dinner at the hotel after our return.
Robben Island, from Table Mountain
Day 19. The following day, we have the choice among visiting the stunning Cape Peninsular, or taking the cable car up Table Mountain, or taking a boat to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for so many years, and whichever option, will try to include a visit to the Rhodes Memorial (Cecil Rhodes was the founder of De Beers Consolidated Mines). Dinner at Bistro 1682 on the Steenberg Estate, or a theatre or concert, if available
Day 20. This morning is time for experiencing both some of the best wines in South Africa and the historic vineyards where they have been produced for more than four centuries. These will include some of Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia, or Buitenverwachting. After lunch at a vineyard, we will visit the city centre to see the Parliament, the Gold Museum, and/or the Old Biscuit Mill (the renovated eclectic fashion centre of Cape Town). Dinner will be at “La Colombe” in Constantia, one of Cape Town’s best restaurants.
Experience the wine estate, Groot Constantia
Day 21. The next morning is available for more visits before we leave, with much reluctance, the “Mother City,” and fly in the early afternoon to Kimberley. Kimberley is in the middle of the country, where diamonds were discovered in 1870 on the farm of Mr. de Beer, creating a diamond rush and sparking avarice in the minds of British imperialists. The town has had a tempestuous history, including being besieged during the Anglo-Boer War. We will stay at the historic Kimberley Club of which Cecil Rhodes was one of the founders. We hope to have a senior De Beers manager join us for dinner.
|Day 22. On Saturday, we will visit the Famous “Big Hole” and the Kimberley Mine and Museum in the morning and, f time permits, visit the Anglo Boer War monuments and Battlefield, before flying to Johannesburg where we will stay overnight at the Intercontinental Hotel at the airport|
|The Kimberley "Big Hole" Being Created|
PART C – “Botswana’s Gems”
The Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and the Okavanga Delta, Botswana
Day 23. We leave Johannesburg in the morning to fly to one of the world’s most dramatic sights – the legendary Victoria Falls on the Zambesi River. We will be met upon arrival at the Victoria Falls Airport, in Zimbabwe, for transfer to the River Lodge Hotel, and spend the afternoon viewing the extraordinary phenomenon that is "The Falls".
Days 24, 25, & 26. The following day, the Okavanga Delta beckons! A maze of lazy lagoons, meandering channels and overgrown islands teeming with wildlife, Botswana’s Okavango Delta lies like a sparkling jewel at the heart of the Kalahari Desert. Known as “the river that never finds the sea”, its crystal clear channels spread over the thirsty lands of the Kalahari with their papyrus-fringed banks and fertile floating islands. Adapted for a life in and out of water, the elegant antelopes – the red lechwe and shy sitatunga – are found in this watery wilderness. Lion, cheetah, leopard and African wild dog share the floodplains with large herds of elephant and buffalo. Hippo inhabit the deeper channels and lagoons, while honey badgers can be seen in broad daylight. Tall termite mounds are homes for families of dwarf and banded mongoose. Glide through the glistening waterways in a mokoro (dugout canoe), where iridescent dragonflies, frogs of every colour and jewel-like kingfishers live in the papyrus-lined banks. 593 species of birds exist in Botswana; you will see quite a few of them!
We will fly to the airstrip with the delightful name of “Pom Pom” in the middle of the Delta, where we will be picked up by the team from the AndBeyond Xaranna Okavango Delta Camp. "And Beyond" is one of the world’s foremost tourism conservation organisations; catering to the luxury market, it has done invaluable work in many countries in Africa and Asia. We will have 3 nights in a safari tent with en-suite bathroom, sala and private plunge pool. Your days will be devoted to seeing wild animals by land and by water, while falling under the friendly spell of the attentive and well–trained staff.
Xaranna Dock (Photo from AndBeyond)
Days 27, 28, & 29. Positioned within an exclusive 25,000 hectare wilderness concession, &Beyond Xaranna Okavango Delta Camp boasts breath-taking views out over a permanent channel of the Okavango Delta. The overall atmosphere of the Camp is light and airy in keeping with this pristine setting. The nine en-suite safari tents are organic in design with a combination of canvas and bleached timber, delicately decorated in shades of fatigue (khaki) and soft lily pink. Each tent boasts a romantic sala, private plunge pool, indoor bathtub and al fresco shower. The guest areas are all positioned carefully to maximise the sweeping views out across the channels. The intimate guest sitting area boasts a spacious reading area, perfect for afternoon relaxation. The elevated dining area features shady verandas with mesmerising views leading out onto an open air “boma”, where exotic candlelit dinners are served under the stars. A fully-stocked Safari Shop offers chic safari gear, African art and jewellery.
After three nights at Xaranna, we will return to “Pom Pom” and fly for just 15 minutes to the Chitabi airstrip to obtain a different perspective on this amazing area at the just completely rebuilt AndBeyond Sandibe Safari Lodge, an earthy yet glamorous safari lodge situated on a permanent channel of the Okavango Delta, adjacent to the Moremi Game Reserve.
|Arriving at Xaranna Camp
Drawing its inspiration from nature, the lodge blends into the landscape, providing an experience that is serene, earthy and organic. Secluded plunge pools and outdoor showers in each of the fifteen suites allow guests to feel part of the forest, while private fireplaces warm the African nights once the sun goes down. Cleverly constructed indoor and outdoor lounging places create cosy nooks ideal for private dining beneath the stars. An interactive kitchen and interpretive naturalist library encourage guests to become one with the surroundings and to enjoy every aspect of the Delta experience.&Beyond Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge has exclusive traversing rights over 270 km2 of wilderness in a private concession, the site having been specifically chosen for its extraordinary beauty and proximity to the game-rich grassy plains. &Beyond Sandibe’s raised guest areas and suites look out onto the Santantadibe Channel, providing spectacular Okavango Delta views.
Wet Elephants (Photo from AndBeyond)
Day 30. We will fly from the Chitaba airstrip to Maun, in the centre of the country, where we will join a commercial flight to Johannesburg, There, we will doff our safari clothes, shake off the dust and burrs of the bush, and in the lovely surroundings of the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa, have a Farewell Dinner celebrating the extraordinary and unique experiences of Africa that we will have enjoyed.
The formal part of the trip ends after a hearty breakfast the next day. Most guests will be departing that evening for their international destinations.
Note that the group will consist of between 8 and 12 people, including the Doulls. We reserve the right to alter some of the above schedule where we consider it appropriate.
Unforgettable African Sunsets
For further information and pricing, please contact Adrian at: email@example.com.
Note: If there is interest in a trip to Namibia following the above, we would be happy to organize that too.
Keep an eye out for or inquire further for the following future trips!
10 days in Provence – September 2015
10-14 days in Namibia – February 2016
10-14 days in Colombia (Cartagena, a National Park, Bogota, and a boat on the Amazon) – March 2016